Greek riot police retreat, after being overwhelmed by the sheer number of protesters during the Tempi demonstration on January 26 in Thessaloniki. Photo by the author, used with permission.

Thessaloniki, along with the rest of Greece, erupted in chaos on January 26 as protesters commemorated the tragic Tempi train crash of February 28, 2023, a harrowing event that claimed 57 lives and exposed systemic negligence and government corruption. 

The tragedy sparked a national uproar and calls for justice, under the motto #ΔΕΝ_ΕΧΩ_ΟΞΥΓΟΝΟ (No oxygen left) — which was one of the chilling cries of anguish heard in an audio documentary about the train tragedy — and using the hashtags #Τέμπη_έγκλημα (Tempi crime) and #Τέμπη_συγκαλυψη (Tempi coverup). Various political factions joined the demonstration last month, culminating in hundreds of thousands of people across Greece and abroad.

One user on X retweeted a post showing the massive protest in Athens while also expressing their discontent with the government and the prime minister:

Mitsotakis. Take the exit and don’t come back. https://t.co/EWlVmO0wDg

— Elenidespisesthereset (@Eleniphu) January 26, 2025

A picket sign in Kamara featuring a photo of Kelly Porfyridou, a 23-year-old student who died in the train crash alongside her boyfriend Nikitas Karatheodorou. Photo by the author, used with permission.

Living in limbo: The Tempi disaster

The Tempi tragedy remains a serious and unresolved issue in Greece, sparking widespread mourning and frustration. Families, relatives, and survivors have channeled their grief into demanding full accountability from the government. When the crash occurred, Prime Minister Kyriakos Mitsotakis first dismissed any suspicion surrounding the train crash. It wasn't until two years later, through investigations led by the victims’ families and not the “official” state investigation, that it was revealed the fire produced between the two train wagons was caused by toxic fuel.

In response, the government has continuously denied any cover-up. The crash, exacerbated by the subsequent fire, has exposed total governmental negligence. New evidence, including audio recordings from passengers who reported struggling to breathe, has accentuated the scale of the disaster. It is also suspected that illegal chemicals in the cargo contributed to the fire's rapid spread, a view that gained significant traction during the protest.

The January 26 protests and public outrage have so far compelled the government to take action, including prosecuting those suspected of involvement in the disaster. However, widespread dissatisfaction remains as deeper systemic issues remain unresolved. Victims’ family members have accused the government of deliberately covering up important information.

An enormous group of protesters march towards the railway station following the demonstration's start at Kamara monument, Thessaloniki. Photo by the author, used with permission.

Chaos ensues

The protest began peacefully in Thessaloniki at the Arch of Galerius (Kamara), a popular gathering place. While lively and filled with energy, the atmosphere was heavy with grief.

A Greek user on X shared a video showcasing the massive demonstration in Thessaloniki:

#ΔΕΝ_ΈΧΩ_ΟΞΥΓΌΝΟ #ΔΕΝ_ΕΧΟΥΜΕ_ΟΞΥΓΟΝΟ #Τεμπη_συγκαλυψη #tempi_crime #Thessaloniki

Σήμερα δεν υπήρχαν κόμματα ούτε σημαίες.
Σήμερα είμασταν όλοι ΕΝΑ. pic.twitter.com/8sFBE7Ygg6

— – Τɥǝ Kraken – (@u_know_n0th1ng) January 26, 2025

[#I don't have oxygen. #We don't have oxygen. #Tempi coverup]

Today there were neither political parties nor flags.
Today we were all ONE.

As the protestors marched toward the Thessaloniki railway station, the leaders turned toward the Hellenic Sub-Ministry of Macedonia and Thrace building. A crowd pushed through to the front as tensions grew, clapping and singing in unison, marking a rare appearance of ultras (football hooligans) at a demonstration. Their volatile and menacing presence drew attention, and they quickly reacted to anyone who attempted to document them with aggressive gestures, including throat-cutting motions. Their energy seemed to be fueled by aggression, or perhaps substances, judging by the look in their eyes.

A mob of ultras was seen near the railway station participating in the protest. Photo by the author, used with permission.

As the demonstration marched toward the railway station and onto Agion Panton Street, the crowd passed under the bridge, with the ultras remaining at the rear — as their chants dominated the atmosphere. The situation escalated rapidly when reaching Dim. Margaropoulou Street, where clashes erupted between protesters and police. Molotov cocktails and rocks flew through the air, and much of the violence was provoked by the ultras.

This piece's author shared his experience, where he found himself face-to-face with a group of ultras:

This is the moment an ultra attacked me while I was documenting the Tempi protest on January 26th, exposing the more chaotic realities behind these rallies… pic.twitter.com/XWJeCOsexT

— Elvis Takahashi Mantello (@elvymelvywelvy) February 7, 2025

In the chaos, one individual wielding a hammer targeted a photojournalist attempting to document the scene. The attacker’s swing narrowly missed his target, who fortunately escaped the confrontation without any injuries. The attacker continued to issue his threats as the scene became more chaotic. Eventually, the photographer found refuge among peaceful anarchist protestors positioned ahead of the ultras. This incident highlights the broader double standards of the Greek police, who often brutally crack down on anarchists while ignoring violence from ultras, as they don't perceive them as a political threat.

A screenshot from a documentary capturing the violence that erupted on Dim. Margaropoulou Street, where an ultra, enraged by the presence of a camera, attempts to attack the videographer with a hammer. Footage by the author, used with permission.

The protest in Athens

In Athens, the protest was even more extensive. Media reports estimated tens of thousands of attendees. Still, many believe the actual number was much higher, possibly in the hundreds of thousands, based on widely circulated photos showing the vast crowd. As demonstrations increasingly became intense, prominent Greek photographer Marios Lolos was attacked by Greek police in Athens.

Lolos shares footage on X capturing the exact moment flash grenades fired by riot police struck him:

Ευχαριστώ για τον ενδιαφέρον σας.
Είμαι καλά την έφαγα ξώφαλτσα.
Έφαγα όμως μια κρότου λάμψης το κεφάλι ευθεία βολή. pic.twitter.com/BIgRWAxXq8

— lolos marios (@lolosmarios) January 26, 2025

Thank you for your concern.
I'm fine, I got hit on the side.
But I took a flashbang straight to the head.

The police threw flash grenades directly at his head, causing severe injury and triggering an immense public backlash. This is not the first time the police have targeted Lolos. As the former president of the Union of Photojournalists of Greece, he has faced repeated incidents of police violence aimed at undermining the press. This is common in Greece, where the state uses force against journalists to undermine press freedom.

On January 31, the Union of Photojournalists staged a protest outside the Ministry of Civil Protection in Athens following the injury of Mario Lolos, who was hurt by state violence from a flash grenade. The image by Thanos Loukopoulos captures the scene and is used with permission.

Public discontent and fury

Back in Thessaloniki, chaos erupted again after the violent clash as the march returned toward Kamara. Individuals dressed in all-black vandalized ATMs, corporate chains, and apartment building walls, symbolic acts of resistance against the state, channeling their fury. Some protesters sought refuge in cafes near Rotunda as police encircled the area in tight formations. The demonstrators confronted the police with a huge crowd. The police seemed stunned and even timid compared to their display during the December 6 protest commemorating Grigoropoulos, where they employed an immense crackdown on demonstrators. Despite their heavy-handed tactics, the massive crowd seemed to deter further escalation, causing the police to evacuate the area.

Near Kamara, chaos erupts as riots escalate. Police rush to the scene to crack down on protesters. Photo by author, used with permission.

This protest was not only about mourning the victims of the Tempi tragedy. It was a call for accountability in a system becoming increasingly detached from ordinary people. Frustration continues to grow as the government fails to demonstrate democratic values, understanding, or representation for the people. With its wide-scale negligence, the Tempi scandal has left a deep wound, fueling ongoing grief, anger, and resistance. January 26 called attention to unresolved tension, shedding light on the growing mistrust many feel toward those running the country.